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Iraq Is Turning Saddam Hussein’s Palace Into a Museum

19:22, Wednesday, 13 April, 2016
Iraq Is Turning Saddam Hussein’s Palace Into a Museum
     Mahdi al-Musawi has a problem. His construction company is rushing to complete work on Iraq’s newest and most ambitious museum, which is slated to open by September. But above the main door, carved in sweeping Arabic calligraphy in beautiful wood, is the name of former Iraqi ruler Saddam Hussein and the soubriquet “Prince of Arabs.”


    
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     Picture of palace of Iraq's executed former president Saddam Hussein in the southern city of Basra
     ENLARGE
     Saddam's former palace in Basra boasts a heart-shaped lake and extensive grounds. Officials are now turning it into a museum.
     PHOTOGRAPH BY ESSAM AL-SUNDAI, AFP, GETTY IMAGES
     By Andrew Lawler
     PUBLISHED APRIL 11, 2016
     BASRA, Iraq—Mahdi al-Musawi has a problem. His construction company is rushing to complete work on Iraq’s newest and most ambitious museum, which is slated to open by September. But above the main door, carved in sweeping Arabic calligraphy in beautiful wood, is the name of former Iraqi ruler Saddam Hussein and the soubriquet “Prince of Arabs.”

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“Politicians will be here for the dedication,” al-Musawi says, eyeing the elaborate script. “They won’t be happy with this.”

Iraqi officials, however, are confident that converting one of Saddam’s former palaces into a museum—the first museum to open in the country in decades—will help spark a cultural revival in Basra, a southern port city and the country’s second largest and fastest growing urban center.

From Saddam to Sumerians
     Given that ISIS forces have devastated much of the heritage in Iraq’s north, opening a new museum might seem a quixotic venture. While the forces of the Islamic State are far from Basra, reminders of the conflict are close at hand.

A Shiite militia group based in trailers just down the street occasionally threatens to requisition the palace, al-Musawi says. And the elaborate structure still bears the scars of several car bombs from when it served as a British Army mess hall after the 2003 invasion.

But in recent years, political stability, an influx of people from the beleaguered north, and a growing oil business just beyond the city limits have turned Basra into a boomtown, making it a prime location for a new cultural attraction.

“When the British left in 2008, I suggested that the central government turn the palace over to us,” says Qahtan al-Abeed, director of the Basra section of Iraq’s State Board of Antiquities and Heritage.

Winning central government approval took two years. The Basra government then agreed to fund $3 million of the $3.5 million project. A United Kingdom charity called the Friends of Basrah Museum collected donations to cover the difference, mostly from oil companies, and the British Museum is providing free curatorial support.

A Collection Behind Steel Doors
     When complete, the museum will include four halls that display artifacts from ancient Sumer, Babylon, Assyria, and Islamic periods of Iraq’s long history. “The whole museum will have 3,500 to 4,000 objects” drawn from the vast storage rooms of Baghdad’s Iraq Museum and displayed in more than one hundred cases, al-Abeed says.

Mindful of the 2003 looting of the Iraq Museum, al-Abeed ordered thick steel doors installed at the entrance to each gallery that can be quickly sealed. But he says security must be balanced by openness. “We want a very modern museum that does more than display objects,” he says. “We want to bring in people for all kinds of art and cultural activities, including training courses and professional meetings.”

None of this can happen just yet, as the Basra government hasn’t put up its share of the renovation costs.

“Like anything else in Iraq, it is difficult to achieve the simplest task,” says Lamia Al-Gailani Werr, a trustee of the Friends of Basrah and an Iraqi who lives in London. The committee suggested that al-Abeed open one gallery as soon as possible, to encourage the government to support the effort. He hopes to do so by September.

Werr praises al-Abeed for his tenacity in pushing forward the museum. But his ambitious vision for Basra, where he was born but fled during the time of Saddam Hussein, extends beyond the renovated palace.

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